Urey O. Mutuale 👨🏾‍💻👨🏾‍🍳👨🏾‍🎨
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    Nomad
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    📍Brazil 🇧🇷
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Finding Roots and Adventure in Goma: A Traveler’s Journal

AFRICA / DIGITAL NOMAD / DRC / TRAVEL

It’s dawn when I arrive in Goma, the lakeside city that hugs the shores of Lake Kivu in Eastern Democratic Republic of Congo. The morning mist drapes low over palm-fringed beaches while fishermen cast nets against a backdrop of banana plantations and fuming volcano peaks. As a digital nomad with a penchant for off-the-beaten-path destinations, I was curious how Goma balanced everyday life with the raw, untamed energy of Mount Nyiragongo. Over a week, I traded coworking cafés in more familiar cities for lively markets, street-side goat stews, and impromptu dance circles in the streets—each experience reminding me why Goma deserves a spot on any adventurous traveler’s list.

1. Goma’s Waterfront and Market Life

Every morning, locals gather along the lakefront in Goma’s petits bateaux (small canoes), guiding them toward markets floating just offshore. I hopped onto one for 1,500 CDF and drifted past fishermen pulling in tilapia catches. On land, the Marché Central pulses with energy—women in bright pagne cloth sell plantains, cassava, and fiery pili-pili sauce. I found a corner stall where a grandmother-figure served me mbege, a maize porridge, and a piping-hot bowl of makemba (goat meat stew). The spices were simple but soulful: garlic, ginger, and a clever splash of palm oil to give it body.

Tip: Bring small local bills (500–5,000 CDF) for market haggling and look for vendors with big smiles—they’re often the best storytellers about where produce comes from, or which canoe captains know the hidden fishing coves.

2. Hiking Mount Nyiragongo Base Camp

Goma’s most famous neighbor is Nyiragongo, one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Instead of tackling the 3,470-meter summit in a single push, I spent a day exploring the base camp trails around Lava Lake. Early afternoons are best: clouds clear for a perfect view of the smoking crater. I joined a local guide—Jean-Claude—who explained how lava flows had shaped Goma’s neighborhoods over the decades. He pointed out hardened lava fields, now turned into fertile grounds for coffee shrubs and bean plots.

Jean-Claude also helped me plan a sunrise summit trek for the next morning. At 4 AM, we set off under headlamps. The climb is steep but steady, and by 6 AM we reached the rim just as the sun peeked over Virunga National Park. The glow of molten lava deep in the crater looked almost serene from that vantage. Despite the heat radiating from the fissures, the air felt electrified—like witnessing a living piece of Earth breathe.

3. Sampling Local Flavors & Community Meals

Back in town, Goma’s culinary scene balances community-style feasts with inventive street food. One evening I joined a fundraising dinner hosted by Congolese entrepreneurs at a lakeside bistro—long wooden tables groaned under mats of mubundu rice, palm chicken, and grilled tilapia fillets. Conversation spanned from youth art collectives to reforestation projects on Nyiragongo’s slopes. At a quieter moment, I wandered into a street kiosk dishing out beignets (fried dough) and hot ginger tea—you’ll often find peppered goat skewers sizzling right beside them.

Local Insight: Ask friends in Goma about “mbote”—a communal greeting that goes beyond a simple hello. It often involves exchanging news about your family, and in markets or lodges, it can turn a simple transaction into a fifty-minute chat about life, hopes, and shared dreams.

4. Practical Tips for Visiting Goma

• Safety & Permits: Goma is generally safe in the city center but always travel with a local guide if you plan to venture near the volcano or into border zones. A permit from Virunga Park authorities is required for treks—budget around $60 USD for a day trip (guide, ranger, and park fees).

• Connectivity & Work Spots: Internet can be patchy. I found that cafés like Café Likeni offered reliable Wi-Fi (1–2 Mbps) for remote work in the mornings. Always carry a local Orange SIM card—data packages start at 10,000 CDF for 2GB.

• Currency & Costs: The Congolese franc (CDF) is cash-only in most places. An average street meal runs 3,000–6,000 CDF, while a night in a mid-range guesthouse is about 40,000 CDF. ATMs exist but often run dry—withdraw when you see one.

• Best Time to Visit: December to February offers cooler days and clearer skies for volcano views. Heavy rains between March and May can make dirt roads slippery, but the landscapes turn brilliantly green.

Conclusion

By the end of my stay, Goma felt like a city of contrasts—where cracked lava beds meet vibrant dance circles, and where every street corner hums with stories of resilience and renewal. It’s a place to slow down, swap headlines for heartfelt conversations, and feel the raw pulse of a city shaped by fire and community spirit. If you’re a digital nomad chasing authenticity, or simply a traveler hungry for real-world tales, Goma’s energy will leave you richer in stories than any postcard ever could. 🌋✨

  • Date:
    28 July 2025 06:00
  • Author:
    Urey Mutuale
  • Categories:
    AFRICA / DIGITAL NOMAD / DRC / TRAVEL
  • Tags:
    CULTURE / DIGITAL NOMAD / DRC / FOOD / GOMA TRAVEL / HIDDEN GEMS

Urey O. Mutuale 👨🏾‍💻👨🏾‍🍳👨🏾‍🎨